This is the sixth post of a three-week series. Please visit the “Adventure Journal” page of our website and start with “Why Nepal?” to read in order! As always, I have added perspectives from the kids (as they allow me to).

Cover Photo: Our first day of understanding the difference between “Nepali hills” and Himals. The snow-capped mountain is Ganesh Himal at about 7,400m (24,000ft).

*Please note that to see Cover Photo on email notification, you will need to click “Read On” at the bottom of the email.

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Day 5: Chisopani (1,689m) - Chumling (2,350m)

June 2, 2019

Stats:

Walked: 8hrs 12mins
Distance: 14 miles
Ascent: 3,571 ft
Descent: 1,717 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,854 ft
Counted 108 mules passing by on our trail

Today was the hardest day yet. We walked the entire day (8 hours was just walking---with breaks it took us nearly 10 hours) and about 60% was uphill! The fun part was that we hiked in completely new scenery. The Nepalis called our scenery “the jungle” but before we got to the more lush/leafy section, it was largely wild bamboo and marijuana forests! Though we saw mules, the path was generally a bit wider so we didn’t have to stop as often and the forest kept us relatively cool. At times, we had to climb manmade rock stairs—the majority of which were about the height of ½ of Kaysee’s entire leg.

Through it all, the kids maintained high spirits. We can already feel our legs getting stronger because this day was not nearly as bad as it would have been if it was earlier on in the trek. We all had a great mix of talking/story-telling and silence; and everyone took care of their own needs (took nature bio-breaks, water stops, and snack breaks when they needed it). At lunch, we rested and played chess and UNO, before we carried on without issue. I feel like we have hit our trekking stride as a family and for the first time, I am not so worried about whether we will complete the full circuit.

Until today, when I saw high mountains in the distance, I would ask our guide, Mingmar Sherpa, if it was Manaslu, or some other Himal. He would always politely chuckle and say, “no, that is just a hill.” It was only when we neared camp and were rewarded with views of Ganesh and Surangi Himals that I understood the difference. Snow-capped and standing over 7,400m (24,000ft) tall, Ganesh Himal was magnificent…and we only saw the top. We learned that Ganesh Himal (named after the sacred elephant-faced Hindu god of prosperity and new beginnings) is forbidden to climb because it is sacred. At certain angles, we could see the shape of Ganesh’s face—specifically, the elephant trunk and ears—and it left us wanting more. Surangi looked more like a giant bottom tooth sticking out above the surrounding “hills.”

The Himal peaking through the clouds amid the forested “hills” served as a perfect backdrop to our family Day 5 picture!

Our camp is in front of a guesthouse which is actually (conveniently) on the part of the Manaslu trail, just before it diverges up to the border of Tibet. We have opted to take that extra long-cut and we’re heading up towards Tsum Valley on a path that we will eventually retrace to get back on the Manaslu Circuit. So, because of its prime location, the teahouse is pretty busy (for Nepali low-season standards), mainly with Nepali trekkers who are commuting to villages for their work (i.e. the healthcare worker we met earlier, three police officers, and a mule herder). We made friends with two children, two dogs, and the owner’s family, especially since we know we’ll be returning back to that campsite in a few days.

Because we are on the grounds of a teahouse, we did not set up our poop tent (which covers a hole in the soil that we aim for). Instead, we are using the pre-built toilet hole facility. Like the others we’ve used, it is in a wooden structure with no light (we always carry our headlamps), but unlike the others where we pour water into the hole when we are done to “flush” it, this one was built along the path of a steadily gushing waterfall/water source. This means it is constantly wet, but also clean. That said, I didn’t get a clear answer about where the waste went from the toilet hole. I have a feeling, I’d hate the answer.

Toilet designed for a natural “flush” from the streaming water gushing down the mountain.

To top off our night, our chef, Dawa Dhai, made amazing potato momos (Nepali potstickers) for dinner. With full bellies, self-massaged legs, and Ibuprofen-drugged bodies, we stumbled to our tents and are writing journals/reading books until our eyes get heavy (likely around 8pm).

P.S. It ended up being a glorious night until it POURED so hard that we awoke in a flooded plain. Luckily, the majority of our tents stayed dry enough to pack-up and/or wear the next day.

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Excerpt from Zayan’s Journal (12 years):

Today was one of the most beautiful days of the trek, but it was also the longest. We fought our way up steep inclines and through narrow trails, where one slip would mean death by raging rapids…but I barely noticed how potentially dangerous this was. My ignorance was a result of being totally taken by the views. The skies were only partly cloudy, so we got a glimpse of some of the peaks. At night, right before bed, the peak totally cleared up and it was stunning. I don’t have much else to say other than I had a good, calm day.

Excerpt from Kenza’s Journal (9 years):

Today was one of the longest and hardest days. It was mostly uphill and very tiring. We also saw our first mountain range called Ganesh Himal. It took us eight hours of walking to complete the entire thing.

I am starting to miss home. I hope we will be there sooner than I think. I also made a side promise to Daddy that if I don’t complain this entire trek, he would get me earrings, a doll, and take me on a bicycle Tuktuk ride when we get back to Kathmandu. Tomorrow—I’ll be ready for you!

A girl at our Chumling campsite who was very interested in what Kenza was doing.

Excerpt from Kaysan’s Journal (7 years):

Today was the hardest day because the steps were so tall that they were up to my knees. Also, this was the hardest day because it was all uphill for 8 hours. At the end of the day it started dumping on us

When we got there was saw the beautiful Ganesh Himal!! It was so snowy!

There are three very cute doggies. One is black, one is peach, and was is brown and white.