This is the third post of a three-week series. Please visit the “Adventure Journal” page and start with “Why Nepal?” to read in order!

Cover Photo: Clearing the path for ~50 mules crossing the river while we were wading/swimming. Please note: that to see Cover Photo on email notification, you will need to click “Read On” at the bottom of the email.

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Day 2 Manaslu Circuit: Soti Khola (700m) - Khola Besi (1000m)

May 30, 2019

Stats of the Day:

Walked: 6 hrs 11 mins
Distance: 10.82 miles
Ascent: 1,719 ft
Descent: 819 ft
Elevation Gain: 900 ft

Today was the first day of trail walking; though it didn’t feel quite like a trail. There was so much construction and we shared the dirt road tracks with CATs, motorbikes, supply trucks, and the occasional Jeep. The heat was fierce (~90F and extremely sunny) and the dust stuck to our faces and bodies. At one point, after stepping over a mud puddle and around trash, Zayan sweetly asked me if this was how I remembered Nepal...yikes. I am hoping the scene changes as we get higher in elevation.

Through the discomfort of the day, I was proud of the kids for walking without a single complaint. I am sure they were wondering how they would do this for the next few weeks, but they walked and walked, like champs. They also drank a ton of water, to the point that Kapil and I were worried they were losing too much salt…but we mitigated our fears with electrolyte tabs.

Since this last year, when I am hiking in silence, I play a little game with the Universe. I look for heart-shaped things as an omen from above. Today was no different in my game-playing, but the results kept a smile on my face. I found hearts EVERYWHERE!

During this walk, I couldn’t help but wander to thoughts of my mom. She used to play these games with the Universe too, only hers had to do with messages from songs on the radio and license plate patterns at red lights. For fleeting moments, my analytical self would question my own sanity—she was after all, bipolar—but then my inner chatter would tell me to let go and stop living in fear. I began to enjoy the hearts.

Nature’s hearts were everywhere, though I stopped taking pictures. Here are a few over the first the few days.

It was nearly 4pm when we arrived at the campsite, which was once again on the property of a teahouse. We settled into our tents, had a cup of tea, and then decided to walk back to the Budhi Gandaki river crossing, a few minutes up the road. Kapil and the kids swam in the freezing water, while I waded and cooled my feet at the edge. While they were swimming, teams of mules passed by and the kids had to stay clear of their path. It was quite a memorable swimming experience!

The kids seem to be doing well after the first real day of walking, though I can tell they are tired from the day, especially the heat. Kenza’s walking fears seem to have vanished, though now her worries have shifted the car ride back to Kathmandu, in 18 days!

*Our “Day 2” picture near the first Manaslu signage of the circuit.*

The river crossing as we approached our campsite.

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Excerpt from Kaysan’s Journal (Age 7):

Today we woke up in the morning and had a cup of tea. Brushing was hard but it was not that different then brushing in a sink. I had porridge, and granola, and some egg for brecfaest.

Then we began the real hikeing. It was so hot!!!!!! We took a break for water evrey second. I had two and a half leaders of water. When we had lunch, I played some chess with Zayan, while haveing lunch.

When we got to our camp, we swam in cold water next to a water fall. While we were swimming we saw mules pas by. Mommy wated us and took pictures.

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Excerpt from Zayan’s Journal (Age 12):

Today was our first day of walking the Manaslu Circuit. The day had its ups and downs, both in mood and elevation, but overall, it was nice to start walking again; nice but tiring. The trail was mostly flat. However, the dust paired with the 90F weather was a draining combination, that had me stumbling at the last mile to camp.

The scenery was the same for the whole hike, and consisted of a narrow valley with a raging river roaring at the bottom. For most of the hike my mind was numb so I lost track of time. The only constant feeling that was pressing my mind, was the thought, “this hike is endless.”

When we got to the campsite I was relieved that it wasn’t in a big dusty, dirty, smelly, and crowded village where we were originally supposed to set-up camp. Instead, we settled into the camping space of a quaint, quiet guesthouse.

After a quick spot of tea, we changed into our board shorts and went for a swim in an eddie of a glacial stream. The cold felt like it was cutting off circulation, but after a minute or two, I started to “warm up” to the freezing water. When I got the courage to dunk my head under the icy water, I instantly felt rejuvenated; I was like a phoenix rising from the ashes, feeling reborn and super refreshed.

Just after dinner, two of the tiniest, cutest girls I have ever seen came to our dining area and tried to sit down with us. Obviously my mom started to try to talk to them right away and give them things. They came with nothing, and to their excitement, left with 4 cookies, 2 mini bags and books of magnets (compliments of Qatar Airlines). I am excited to finally get some sleep after today’s hike. Goodnight!

P.S. I had a terrible evening. I won’t get into the details, but when I tried to squat and poo, I pissed on the back of my pants, almost fell over, and got sh*t on my wrist…and there was a huge lizard in the squatty floor toilet hole while I was doing my business.